December 1999/ January 2000

Articles		Page
TENDER ROASTS, SAVORY FILLINGS by Gwen Kvavli Gulliksen Stuff a pork, beef, or veal center cut for a more succulent main dish		28
GOLDEN, CRISP CHICKEN COOKED UNDER A BRICK by Joseph Verde Sear a split whole chicken under a heavy weight and finish it in the oven for a crackling crust and moist meat		33
CLASSIC POTATO GRATIN by Martha Holmberg Wafer-thin slices and lots of cream are the keys to this satisfying side dish		36
FRENCH TOAST STUFFED WITH A CREAMY FILLING by Donna Leahy For a do-ahead breakfast, stuff the bread the night before; the next morning, just sauté and bake		30
MAKING A PAIR OF OLD-FASHIONED CANDIES by Kay Fahey For the best homemade candy, grab a heavy pot and a candy thermometer and get ready to stir like mad		41
UNCOMMONLY GOOD HOT CHOCOLATE by Richard Donnelly Add good-quality chocolate to steaming milk and whiz in the blender for a warm and frothy winter treat		46
CHOOSING AMONG CITRUS JUICERS by Joanne McAllister Smart When buying your main squeeze, consider price, counter space, and how often you crave fresh-squeezed juice		49
PERFECTING THE MARRIAGE OF PASTA AND SAUCE by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Consider the texture of the sauce and the shape of the pasta for a match made in heaven		52
BALSAMIC VINEGAR IS ITALY'S FAMED ELIXIR by Paul Bertolli More like wine than vinegar, genuine balsamico gets complex flavor from lengthy aging in lots of wood		56
BAKING LIGHT AND FLAKY CROISSANTS by Robert Jörin A laminated pastry dough, with less butter than you'd expect, gives this flaky pastry its irresistible texture		60
TOASTED HAZELNUT & CHOCOLATE MARQUISE by Abigail Johnson Dodge This classic French dessert is making a comeback; delicate ladyfingers and a deep chocolate, truffle-like filling are the reasons why		64
Departments		Page
CONTRIBUTORS		4
LETTERS		8
Q & A		12
AT THE MARKET Juicy grapes to grace your table		14
TASTED & TESTED Gifts for cooks		16
TECHNIQUE CLASS How to make a satiny, full-bodied hollandaise sauce		20
ENJOYING WINE Choosing a corkscrew that works, comfortably		24
TIPS		26
BASICS How to fill a pastry bag; heavy vs. whipping cream		72
FLAVORINGS Add zing with zest		74
FOOD SCIENCE Controlling crystals		76
REVIEWS Eight books by expert cooks		80
ADVERTISER INDEX		81
SOURCES		83
RECIPE & TECHNIQUE INDEX		87
NUTRITION INFORMATION		87
1999 RECIPE INDEX		89
QUICK & DELICIOUS Cod in a tarragon-tomato broth		90
ARTISAN FOODS Architecturally inspired cakes		92

Tender Roasts, Savory Fillings; Golden Crisp Chicken Cooked Under a Brick; Classic Potato Gratin; French Toast Stuffed with a Creamy Filling; Making a Pair of Old-Fashioned Candies; Uncommonly Good Hot Chocolate; Choosing Among Citrus Juicers; Perfecting the Marriage of Pasta and Sauce; Balsamic Vinegar is Italy's Famed Elixir; Baking Light and Flaky Croissants; Toasted Hazelnut and Chocolate Marquise