August/ September 2000

Articles		Page
GRILLING GUIDE (special section)		18
VISIT THE FARMERS' MARKET WITH A MENU IN M IND by John Ash A fresh produce guru shares shopping strategies and six recipes for a sensational summer dinner		36
COOL SUMMER SALADS FROM A POT OF BEANS by Jan Newberry tossed with fragrant herbs and a bright dressing, beans make a light yet filling dish		42
GRILLED CORN ON THE COB by Lisa Hanauer A few minutes over a hot fire adds subtle smokiness, a perfect accent to today's super-sweet varieties of corn		46
GAZPACHO -- REFRESHING VARIATIONS ON A COOL CLASSIC by Leslie Revsin Purée garden-fresh vegetables for these chilled soups that are just right for summer		48
EXCEPTIONALLY SMOOTH HOMEMADE ICE CREAM by Jim Peyton Three mellow flavors -- chocolate, coconut, and cream with sherry -- owe their soft, lush texture to evaporated milk		52
COOKING FRUIT WITH FIRE Briwa Try grilling fruit for an irresistible smoky sweetness that's right for dinner or dessert		56
HOT-SMOKING YOUR OWN SALMON by Ed Starbird A fun summer project that gives you salmon with a fabulous smoky flavor and a superb texture		61
COOKING WITH SMOKE -- IN STYLE by Joanne McAllister Smart There's a smoker out there to suit your needs and your budget		66
FREEFORM RUSTIC TARTS by David Lebovitz Whether sweet or savory, a galette is less fussy than a traditional tart and offers more crisp crust		68
Departments		Page
CONTRIBUTORS		6
LETTERS		8
Q & A The best way to store Champagne; removing mold from hard cheeses; freezing buttermilk		12
TASTED & TESTED		16
TECHNIQUE CLASS A concassée makes tomatoes recipe-ready		20
AT THE MARKET Olives, to savor and to cook with		24
TASTED & TESTED sauce		20
REVIEWS Summer cookbooks: fresh from the garden and beyond		28
TIPS		32
BASICS Getting the most from garlic; spareribs vs. back ribs		74
FLAVORINGS A fresh look at sage		76
FOOD SCIENCE Getting the best texture in ice cream		78
SOURCES		80
ADVERTISER INDEX		84
RECIPE & TECHNIQUE INDEX		85
NUTRITION INFORMATION		85
QUICK & DELICIOUS A summery strata		86
ARTISAN FOODS From vine to wine		88

Grilling Guide (special section), Visit the Farmers' Market with a Menu in Mind, Cool Summer Salads from a Pot of Beans, Grilled Corn on the Cob, Gazpacho -- Refreshing Variations on a Cool Classic, Exceptionally Smooth Homemade Ice Cream, Cooking Fruit with Fire, Hot-Smoking Your Own Salmon, Cooking with Smoke -- In Style, Freeform Rustic Tarts