April/ May 2005

Feature Articles		Page
SEAR, ROAST & SAUCE by Tony Rosenfeld This versatile method produces perfect browning and even doneness for chicken, beef, pork, and salmon		36
QUICK-BRAISED VEGETABLES by Susie Middleton For long-cooked flavor in a flash, try this easy technique for asparagus, green beans, and carrots		41
RICE COOKED THREE WAYS by Raghavan Iyer How to bring out the best in basmati, brown, and medium-grain white rice		46
SPAGHETTI & MEATBALLS by Frank Pellegrino Light, tender meatballs-and just the right amount of sauce-make this version the best you've ever had		50
3 CHEFS COOK LEG OF LAMB 3 WAYS by Kimberly Y. Masibay Butterflied and grilled, whole and roasted, or boned and stuffed, leg of lamb make a delicious spring roast		52
PERFECT OVEN FRIES by Molly Stevens Crisp outside, fluffy inside, the best oven fries are parboiled first, then roasted in a hot oven		58
CARAMELIZED ONIONS by Tony Rosenfeld Make them ahead and then stir them into weeknight meals for deep flavor fast		60
CIOPPINO: A SAVORY SEAFOOD STEW by John Ash This San Francisco classic is a succulent mix of shellfish and white fish in a brightly flavored broth		63
PURE VANILLA FLAVOR by Abigail Johnson Dodge For the most intense vanilla desserts-cakes, cookies, puddings, and more-reach for beans or pure extract		66
Departments		Page
RECIPE INDEX		6
MENUS		8
LETTERS		10
CONTRIBUTORS		12
Q&A		14
ENJOYING WINE Ten great wines for $12 and under		16
GREAT FINDS Kitchen containers; mâche mixes; spray oils		18
IN SEASON Fresh chives-an herb with verve		22
EQUIPMENT Kullenschliff knives; Espresso maker review; Sauté pan ratings; Choosing tongs; Deep fryer review; Shopping for a range hood		24
READERS' TIPS		34
FROM OUR TEST KITCHEN Choosing clams and mussels; Rediscovering barley; Butterflying lamb; Carving lamb; Rating diced tomatoes		72
ADVERTISER INDEX / FINE COOKING SHOPPING GUIDE		78
FOOD SCIENCE Understanding moist vs. dry heat		80
WHERE TO BUY IT		82
NUTRITION INFORMATION		86
FOLDOUT SECTION Quick & Delicious: Now that winter's over...		86c
BACK COVER: ARTISAN FOODS Stone Barns Center

Sear, Roast & Sauce; Quick-Braised Vegetables; Rice Cooked Three Ways; Spaghetti & Meatballs; 3 Chefs Cook Leg of Lamb 3 Ways; Perfect Oven Fries; Caramelized Onions; Cioppino: A Savory Seafood Stew; Pure Vanilla Flavor